The restaurant in the hotel in which we stayed in A Rua was closed last night (Sunday) and the manager recommended a restaurant in the village just down the road. Superb! We dined on grilled octopus preceded by a salad and accompanied by an excellent white wine (Santiago Roma) selected by our captivating hostess.
After a good breakfast (bacon and eggs) we set out for Santiago at about nine. The whole feel was different. Although we had 21kms/5 hours of walking ahead of us, it was as though Santiago was just around the corner coming into view at any moment. That feeling changed within the first few kms.
The walk was tougher than expected with some really long, and at times steep, climbs and descents as we followed the well marked route through the hills; challenging on fatigued legs and tender feet. The pretty scenery made some amends but each protracted km took it’s toll. I was fascinated that there were a few stalls along the way offering souvenirs and fruit which were unattended; put down your money and take your pick.
There were a good number of pilgrims (and others) en route, many stopping off in pubs and cafes for a break. We have usually stopped for a coffee, sandwich or apple break but today we soldieretd on eager to finish. It got quieter and quieter as we got closer to Santiago; no more pilgrim greetings and very little chatter; the focus on completing the Camino. Pilgrims of all ages from countries around the world moving towards the cathedral; each having walked their own personal and unique journey.
With about 4kms to go we entered the suburbs before walking through the modern city with its traffic and bustle, then back into the suburbs before finally entering the old city. These last four kms felt endless. There was a bagpiper (as there has been on previous visits) wailing for small change at the entrance to the square, the Prada Do Obradoiro , which stands as the forecourt to the cathedral and the arrival area for pilgrims; many lying in the sun or sitting in small groups savouring the moment.
We were exhausted and our priority was to find the hotel – which we couldn’t. Next best was a coffee which we enjoyed in the square and were then directed to our hotel less than two minutes walk from the cathedral. The hotel is lovely. My room is on the fourth floor which means I’m much closer …….. to the bells! There are at least two bell towers in close proximity each with mucho big ding-dongs tolling the hour on the hour and sometimes in between. But this cannot and does not detract from the joy of being in Santiago de Compostela.
A worthy achievement! You are surely blessed.