Outside the austere old church were we attended Mass last night, I was struck again by the strange appearance of leafless skeletal trees with large bare knuckles ….. no idea what they are.
The church interior was as interesting mix of old and new with an attractive sanctuary. Mass was in Spanish but very fulfilling none the less. After a beer at the bar in the hotel we enjoyed supper choosing the menu of local cuisine ; salad, hake prepared Galicia style and dessert.
We set off after breakfast in the mist which lifted as the morning warmed up and the first 10 kms were gloriously gently, winding through the countryside passing close by farm homesteads (some with horses), flowering begonia, magnolia and camellia, ploughed fields and through shady woodlands. I was conscious at one stage that the only sounds were my breathing, crunching footsteps in sync with the tapping of my poles and the cheerful chatter of the birds. The wide track we were treading has been trampled by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims for over a thousand years. Gentle peace.
However these moments of tranquility were infrequent. There were a large number of pilgrims on the road today (dictating a more strategic approach to urinating or passing wind), many in small groups engaged in lively prattle better suited to a children’s playground. Now, now I mustn’t be unkind.
Along the track we encountered stalls selling pilgrim souvenirs, outdoor pubs and even a small shrine probably in memory of loved one. The last few kms ran close to a busy, noisy highway and through more built up suburbia.
It was an easy walk today and thankfully for me with next to no pain or discomfort.
We arrived in the medieval village of A Rua just before two. The history of A Rua dates back centuries before the Romans invaded in 25BC and its main claim to fame is the wine produced here which is reputed to be some of the best in the world. No doubt we’ll judge for ourselves over dinner tonight.
We are now only 20kms from Santiago de Compostela.
Tomorrow’s a big day.
What an achievement for you blokes. I am so impressed. Can’t wait to chat when you get back xxx
P.S. mom told me my lovely grandchildren visited her today!! That being Claire and your g children !!