We had supper in the hotel last night; the only people eating in the large, boardinghouse like dining room. First course was a macaroni dish followed by crumbed and grilled fish and Santiago tart. The place is a dump.
Breakfast was two slices of toast and ……. ? Yup! Ham and cheese.
We set off on a stunning mild clear morning at about eight and after a short dip huffed up a 2.5km climb with sweat running into my eyes as we left the mountains and settled into the hills. The countryside is beautiful and we walked on mainly dry dirt and often tar tracks running between large farms teaming with activity; spring is very obviously in the air. We had the early morning sun on our backs casting long shadows ahead of us.
The route was undulating with steady gentle inclines over a km or so dropping down for the next km often then crossing strongly running streams to start the next climb.
The farm villages are generally only a few kms apart and the homes, sheds and equipment much more modern. A few of the villages feature lovely old churches; some including a cemetery ( we’ve seen a lot of small cemeteries but these are usually set apart from any other buildings).
At about the 18km mark (with another 13kms to go), my (bionic) knee started complaining that it was time to stop walking. We stopped at a shelter that amazingly had two dispensing machines (one offering chocolates, chips, cold drinks and sandwiches; the other various coffee and hot chocolate options) and a small microwave oven to heat the sandwiches. Marvelous! I had chicken schnitzel and Derrick had beef.
When we hit the road again my knee seized……. janowellfine. I think the problem is ITB; painful but not terminal. I hobbled for a bit then it easied up (perhaps drug induced:-) and for me the rest of the walk was a slow, uncomfortable struggle – pity because the surrounds are really pretty on what should have been an easy walk into Lugo (pronounced Luyo). I was sorry to slow Derrick down.
With about 3 kms to go we crossed a bridge over the highway, now I knew we were close and I relinquished the idea of calling for a rescue helicopter or commandeering a pony, cow or tractor. The path into the city is challenging dropping down to the river before climbing steeply into the inner city perched on a hill and encircled by a 7m high wall built by the Romans.
A long hot bath has restored my sense of humour. I asked Derrick how he’s feeling; very tired, fatigued but thrilled to be on this journey.
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