O Fonsagrada means Sacred Fountain and eludes to the legend that St James was attended in this village by a poor widow and moved by her kindness and poverty, turned the village fountain’s water into milk – sacred fountain.
We were both physically shattered after yesterday’s hike and last night moving slowly and deliberately on sore feet and legs found a restaurant close by which offered a Pilgrims menu serving traditional Galician cuisine. We had crossed into Galicia from the principality of Asturias earlier in the day. Supper was superb! A thick Galician soup eaten with hard, dense, thick bread crusts; pulpo a Féria (octopus – see pic); fried green peppers and dessert (coffee caramel or lemon soufflé).
Notwithstanding that our accommodation was in an albergue/pension, our host this morning produced one of the best breakfasts we’ve had; corn flakes, scrambled eggs on toast, ham on toast with a drizzle of olive oil, Santiago tart (almond cake) and great coffee.
We set off from the ancient cross in the city centre. These crosses were road markings centuries ago to show the St James Way.
Twas a beautiful morning; clear skies, crispy cold and no wind. The first 7 kms were an easy climb on mountain paths and tracks with spectacular views and very little mud. We walked at a comfortable pace chatting and the hours and kms passed unnoticed as we again approached a ridge of wind turbines. At the top we found the ruins of a former pilgrim hospital founded in 1360 and used up until about 200 years ago. A new chapel has been built here from some of the ruins.
When the track disappeared in front of us and we were confronted with a steep, long, winding decline we were reminded that today’s stage is graded as a 4/5 (physically challenging and difficult). The track dropped over 300m in altitude over 3 kms; bone jarring and a severe pounding on the feet and toes.
In a small village at the bottom we stopped for lunch in a rather bizarre but cozy restaurant and plodded on choosing to walk the next 5 kms on the road to avoid a muddy section.
The afternoon section featured a few steep climbs that pushed my heart rate into the red zone and more descents which by now were taking their toll. A cold wind came up in the afternoon directly off the snow capped mountains in the distance. A couple of American pilgrims caught up with us, walked and chatted for a while before continuing ahead of us.
The long descent dropping into O Cadavo hammered my knees and I really battled and was very happy to get into a hot bath at our hotel (I got the bath and bidet this time 🙂
Our host at breakfast this morning told us that today was the last day in the mountains and that it gets easier from then onwards; pleasing to the ear. We’ve now walked 8 days covering 200 kms over and through these beautiful mountains but I have no strong desire to climb up or down any more ….. well not at the moment anyway.
Peace be with you.
You both look chirpy!
Do you climb and descend in silence? In meditation ?
In prayer? Or do you just just chat generally?
Well done so far xxx
Blessings and strength to both of you as you seem to be pounding out the kms with a spirit of strength and fortitude only given by the Living God. I am sure that God will talk to you deeply and may each up hill and down hill remind you of what He gave for us on that cross and thereby enrich your lives so deeply that you shine like the sun when you talk to others of your Saviour.
Our thoughts and prayers are with you both.