At about 7 last night we crawled out of the hotel in the rain to find supper and a beer. We’d read a recommendation for a place that was across the road from our hotel. On entering, we encountered an angry battle-axe who shood us out – not open before 8. We found a bar close-by crowded with men watching soccer on TV and settled in for a beer or two (actually three) with a few bowls of nut like things. The wicked witch was eating at one of the three tables in this dump when we returned for food and she again scowled and muttered (probably an ancient curse) at the sight of us but we were rescued by a scruffy young man (her son?) who showed us to a table and served our pilgrim menu. The soup was hiding under an orange layer of fat globs and tasteless. We devoured thick slices of dark rustic bread using the soup as a lubricant. This was followed by generous bowls of bean stew, some sort of veg(?) stew, another stew …before we conceded… apparently there was more to come. The stews each featured a small piece of sausage cut in two … resembling abdominal body parts. Janowellfine.
We set off this morning in the rain and cold which was pretty much the picture all day. Today’s 20 km route was all climbing – moving from an altitude of about 200m to 800m. The first 3kms were wonderful; beautiful nature on a mountain path with a gentle gradient accompanied on our right by a strong stream powering its way down. A sharp turn to the left exposed an alarmingly steep change in gradient for about one km before letting up. By now we were in full rain gear. The next 5 kms were a mixture of short sharp ascents and longer easier climbs. There were some awful thick muddy patches along the way. The path come out on the road to walk through La Espina and on seeing the mud bath that lay ahead on the Camino trail at the end of the village we decide to stay on the road.
The road isn’t designed for pedestrians; no gutter or shoulder and we walked as close to the edge as possible facing the busy oncoming flow of mainly trucks whose drivers were as unhappy to see and avoid us as we were to see and avoid them. A few kms later we ventured back onto the Camino path which ran along the hillside above the road. But the mud was terrible and unavoidable and we scrambled back down to the road to walk the last kms to Tineo. Max temp 8 and min 4.
The receptionist at the hotel was unfriendly and until she’d actually found our reservation was convinced we’d come to the wrong place. It’s the best hotel in town and with tomorrow as a rest day we’re treating ourselves 🙂
We saw no pilgrims today; in fact saw very few people (other than truck drivers). When we were walking through La Espina an elderly man shuffling along the pavement gave us a wry smile and shook his head.
Today’s stats:
21.2 kms, 28300 steps, 2600 calories, 5h38m
Onwards! Forwards! God be with us !
What an amazing journey for an amazing man. Onwards and upwards. My prayers are with you two for a safe journey. X
Wow. Experiencing a great adventure!!! Think they’re rather serious and surly up that way, but you’re bound to find a friendly person somewhere, I hope. Glad you’re having a rest day. Poor leg muscles. Take care! xx
The country side looks beautiful
The food sounds awful
And you guys are amazing!!