We weren’t able to do the planned hike today because the passes (“col”) over which we were to hike are still covered in snow and ice. However a couple of friends from Canada (2 women in their early 60s) did the hike and their pics were impressive and scary.
We did a relatively easy 12 km circular walk up the mountain (500m up and 500m down) stopping half way at Refuge Nant Borrant for coffe/beer joined by a Canadian couple (very fit and strong) whose company we’ve enjoyed since starting out.
The 5km up was on a magical narrow forest path with some short sharp steep ascents crossing over many narrow waterfalls. When one of my walking poles suddenly didn’t hit ground and disappeared into the foliage I realized how close we were walking to the edge. A man being “towed” by a husky ran up past us.
At the top we stopped on a beautiful Roman bridge crossing an impressive narrow gorge with gushing torrents pouring through natural rock formations.
The descent down to the valley was an easier walk and we came across the Norte Dame de la Gorge pilgrimage chapel; picturesque inside and out.
Back at the hotel we had beer before our transfer bus arrived at 3pm to take us to Refuge des Mottets. What is an 18km hike over the mountains took us 2,5 hours (about 130kms) by road winding up, round and over multiple “col” before descending to pretty villages of varying size in the many valleys; continuous ribbon of harpin bends barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass. Only someone who has driven these passes many times could drive a mini-bus at that speed 😬. Impressed by the number of cyclists powering up the steep and long climbs.
The Refugio …… pretty setting and pretty basic. Our tiny room was self contained; beds, loo, basin and shower in a matchbox.
The quaint dining room where we enjoyed a communal supper was decorated (walls and ceiling) with old farming, climbing, cooking utensils. The food was delicious mountain fare at its best but the highlight was the entertainment; a barrel organ churning out songs familiar and unknown. When the “organist” hit the Beatles the room erupted in song. A good time enjoyed by all.
Tomorrow’s hike promises the real thing.
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